In the sparkling waters of Indonesia, there lies a remote marine haven where few tourists venture, but where magic awaits. Nestled in the heart of Sumbawa Island, Saleh Bay is home to a gentle giant that glides gracefully beneath the waves—the whale sharks of Saleh Bay. Here, in the calm, nutrient-rich waters of this vast bay, one of nature’s most majestic creatures can be seen in a way that is intimate, respectful, and unlike anywhere else in the world.
While Bali and Komodo often dominate the spotlight, Saleh Bay offers a more authentic, raw encounter with marine wildlife—free from overcrowded boats or artificial feeding. If you’re looking for a wildlife experience that leaves both your heart and conscience full, then swimming with the whale sharks of Saleh Bay should be on your bucket list.
Where is Saleh Bay and Why Is It So Special?
Saleh Bay, or Teluk Saleh, is located in West Nusa Tenggara, just off the northern coast of Sumbawa Island. Spanning over 2,000 square kilometers, it is Indonesia’s largest enclosed bay, framed by volcanic ridges and traditional fishing villages.
What makes Saleh Bay exceptional isn’t just its size or beauty—it’s its unique ecological conditions. The bay is rich in plankton and small fish, largely due to the presence of bagan, traditional fishing platforms that light up the waters at night. These lights attract baitfish, which in turn attract the whale sharks of Saleh Bay.
Unlike other locations around the world where whale sharks are seasonal or rarely seen, sightings in Saleh Bay are regular and reliable, particularly during the dry season. And best of all—these sightings happen naturally, without baiting or disruptive practices.
The Gentle Giants: Getting to Know the Whale Sharks of Saleh Bay
The whale shark (Rhincodon typus) is the largest fish on Earth, capable of growing up to 18 meters in length. Despite their enormous size, whale sharks are filter feeders, consuming tiny plankton, fish eggs, and microscopic organisms.
The whale sharks of Saleh Bay are a sight to behold—slow-moving, curious, and entirely harmless to humans. Their presence near the surface allows for an up-close experience, especially for snorkelers who want to observe these marine giants without the need for diving equipment.
Locals believe that some individuals return regularly, drawn by the bay’s calm, food-rich waters and absence of threats. It’s not unusual to see several whale sharks circling a single bagan on any given morning.
The Role of Bagan and Local Fishermen
One of the most fascinating aspects of the whale sharks of Saleh Bay story is the relationship between the animals and the local fishing culture. The bagan—large, wooden fishing platforms suspended over the water—use bright lights to attract schools of fish during the night. This unintended feeding zone has become a whale shark hotspot.
Rather than exploit this opportunity commercially or disrupt the ecosystem, local communities have embraced a model of ethical and sustainable eco-tourism. Fishermen now work with tour operators and conservationists to protect the whale sharks, share knowledge, and guide tourists through safe and respectful interactions.
This partnership has become a cornerstone of marine conservation in Sumbawa, offering an alternative source of income for locals and preserving the natural behaviors of these majestic animals.
Best Time to See the Whale Sharks of Saleh Bay
While whale sharks may appear year-round, the best time to visit Saleh Bay is during the dry season, from April to October. This period offers:
- Calmer seas and better visibility
- More frequent whale shark sightings
- Safer boat and snorkeling conditions
Tours often begin early in the morning, as whale sharks are most active around sunrise when the bagan are still lit or just beginning to be cleared by fishermen.
What to Expect During a Tour
A typical whale shark tour in Saleh Bay includes:
- Early morning boat ride from coastal villages like Labuan Jambu or Kilo
- Approach to the bagan where whale sharks are spotted feeding
- Snorkeling session to swim with the whale sharks—usually 30 to 60 minutes
- Light refreshments and a return journey with views of Sumbawa’s coastline
Tours usually maintain a low-impact model with limited group sizes. Safety briefings are provided, and reef-safe sunscreen is recommended. Some packages also include GoPro documentation or educational talks about marine conservation.
How Ethical Tourism Supports Conservation
The whale sharks of Saleh Bay are protected not only by their remoteness but by a growing commitment to ethical tourism. Here’s how responsible tourism practices benefit both the sharks and the surrounding communities:
- No artificial feeding: Sharks feed naturally on existing marine life.
- No touching or riding: Interactions are strictly visual and respectful.
- Local employment: Fishermen act as guides and guardians, earning income while protecting marine life.
- Education and awareness: Visitors learn about conservation and how to protect ocean ecosystems.
- Data collection: Some tours partner with NGOs to identify, photograph, and monitor individual whale sharks.
This model turns a simple wildlife experience into a collaborative conservation effort.
How to Get There
To visit the whale sharks of Saleh Bay, you can follow this travel route:
- Fly to Lombok or Bali, then take a domestic flight to either:
- Bima Airport (BMU) (closer to Dompu and Kilo)
- Sumbawa Besar (SWQ)
- From the airport, hire a car or arrange a shuttle to your chosen tour village (most tour operators provide transport services)
It’s recommended to spend at least two nights in the area to allow for weather changes and increase your chances of a successful whale shark encounter.
What to Bring for Your Whale Shark Experience
To ensure a comfortable and respectful experience, pack the following:
- Snorkel gear (if not provided)
- Waterproof camera or GoPro
- Rash guard or swimwear
- Reef-safe sunscreen
- Dry bag and change of clothes
- Motion sickness pills (optional)
- Cash (ATMs are limited in rural areas)
Don’t forget a good attitude and a deep appreciation for the ocean—you’re about to witness something extraordinary.
Other Attractions Near Saleh Bay
While the whale sharks of Saleh Bay are undoubtedly the highlight, Sumbawa offers much more to explore:
- Mount Tambora: Trek the volcano that caused the “year without a summer” in 1815.
- Moyo Island: Snorkel or relax on this remote island paradise.
- Lakey Peak: One of Indonesia’s best surfing destinations.
- Traditional Villages: Experience weaving, pottery, and Sumbawanese hospitality.
Combining marine adventure with land exploration offers a deeper understanding of this underrated island.
A Life-Changing Encounter
Swimming with the whale sharks of Saleh Bay is more than just a travel activity—it’s a transformational experience. It reconnects you with nature, educates you about ocean conservation, and supports communities working to protect their environment.
Unlike many marine tourism sites that suffer from overtourism and unethical practices, Saleh Bay is setting an example of how it can be done right. And by choosing to visit responsibly, you become a part of that success story.
So, if you’re ready to leave the tourist trail and dive into something meaningful, make your way to Sumbawa. The whale sharks of Saleh Bay are waiting—and they’ll leave a mark on your soul that lasts a lifetime.